Siena

Siena

Thursday, June 30, 2011

We have no beautiful art in America-- I'm convinced.

This morning, I met for Dante class, and this afternoon we toured the Palazza Pubblico Museo Civico (the public/government building where there is a museum).  Interestingly, I had no expectations.  The building is beautiful, but I expected the "museum" pieces to be simple works of art.  I was so very wrong.  Each of the rooms we entered were covered wall to ceiling in frescos.  These paintings were not simple; they were spectacularly complex and rich in color.  There was not one inch of space that was not painted in intricate detail.

Here is the underneath of the entrance into the Palazza Publicco.


This little snake is one of the many that hold up the columns around the piazza.  He's covered in palio dirt (which is brought in from a barn and put into the ring for the race and then taken back to the barn.  They use the same dirt each year.)

Here is the view from the middle of the Museo.


I've had so many of those moments where've I've lost myself in the beauty of this place.  There is nothing like this in America (at least that I've ever seen).  Places where the paintings on the walls are from before 1400 ad.  Frescos that Dante might've seen, loved, rememberd.  I couldn't wait to share the pictures, but unfortunately, they do not allow any photos, even without the flash.  It's so disappointing.

My favorite room of the Museo was where the nine "rulers" of the city entered each morning from their living quarters.  The first thing to greet them was a picture of Siena.  The town was at peace; traders, merchants, and tradesmen working and selling; women dancing in the streets; gorgeous buildings.  Below this, there was a short paragraph to remind these men who ruled the city that this is how Siena should be, and that in order for the people and the city to prosper, everyone must follow ben commune. 


I love the idea of ben commune-- at its roots, it is the concept that all is done for the common good.  By following the classical virtues and Biblical commandants-- i.e. doing right by others-- the community will prosper; Siena will be enriched and success will come to its people.

Beside the painting of Siena is a scene with the virtues, each metaphorically represented by a female (for example, Peace is lounging on a couch sitting on unused armor with a sweet look on her face).  And on the opposite wall, is a another picture which looks almost identical to the painting of the virtues, except it shows the vices (Vanity sits with a mirror in her hand, failing to see the suffering around her).Then, painted beside the vices is another look at Siena; on this, the buildings are in disarray, the people are enslaved, there is no business opened, and the only tradesman is the armorer who is preparing for war.

These frescos were so amazingly detailed and so eye-opening that it is difficult to think of anything else tonight as I write this blog.  Seeing these ideas of ben commune so perfectly depicted in thirteenth century art, when we in the twenty-first century cannot seem to grasp them ourselves is almost disheartening.  So, today, as you make your way out in the world, practice one small act of  ben commune.  Do one thing that benefits everyone of the community instead of just yourself.

Though I didn't take any pictures in the Museo, I did take a picture of our classroom and of the bar where I eat my lunch and buy my 5 euros worth of water and snack each day.

This is our small but nice classroom.  It is about forty-fifty steps from the Palazzo Pubblico (which I posted a pic of above).


Here is Bar De Torre; my favorite snack and lunch spot.  It's named after the contrada that its in (la Torre). The doorway just to the left of the last table is our classroom.  It's convenient and we get a discount-- this means my bottle of water is only 1.50 euro and my Gatorade, which I never drank before and now need everyday, is only 2.20 euros.  (I'll be taking up a collection to feed my need for cold beverages later this summer!)











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